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Michiko Koshino AW19 Rave On

A retrospective collection that draws on Michiko Koshino’s strong 80s foundations and how its spirit of subculture, escapism and rebellion lives on in her aesthetic today.

Review by Eleanor Williams

Photography by Silvia Dee

 

Michiko Koshino presented her AW19 collection by taking us through nostalgic strobe-lit tunnels into an intimate setting of a house party living room. Graffiti covered walls, empty beer cans and crotchet blankets where a clear reference to rebellion and escapism that rave culture of the 80s inspired.

 

Her iconic inflatable coats hung from different angles of the rooms, camouflage jackets on mannikins, an England knitted jumper placed draped over an armchair with Khaki trousers with waxed cotton tees hanging up –– the garments of her new collection which hold, to the strength of them, the essence of her 80s. 

As a well-established pattern cutter, Michiko showed an understanding of silhouette with a present emphasis on masculinity. Masculinity not so much defined by gender but impeccably influenced by attitude. Ignighting nostalgia, escapism as well as a reference to Berlin’s techno rave culture her collections seem to be relatable to today’s audience, whom like brave ravers of the past are still appreciators of late night parties, a good time and a functional but rebellious dress code to get them there.

 

The casting was minimal with only one model dancing in the last room wearing just a jumpsuit and listening to techno music. However, the hints of culture came through within the set design and clothes and not using models was a fun and exciting stance on the fashion week presentations we usually see.