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Jordan Luca AW19 The Mind Of A Man Is His Vice

A collection that speaks to the sordid nature of human fixations and its seedy impact on ready to wear designs

Review by Princess Ashilokun

Photography by Hark1karan

 

Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s eponymously named brand, Jordanluca, aims to constantly challenge and resist the norms of conventional contemporary menswear. On an information sheet handed explaining the process behind Jordanluca’s presentation, it states that they aimed to explore “the mind of a man compelled by vice and presents the conflict of predatory obsession through a muted and studied third collection”.

 

Jordanluca sets a balance in tone through the use of the turbulent and dishevelled setting of a male adult bedroom, wherein mattresses are pressed upright against the wall, surrounded by scattered white bras and briefs, the visual is daringly completed with discarded tissues which playfully still drip the fluids discharged in the aftermath of a sexual encounter. Certainly bolder in terms of concept choice, Jordanluca disturbs the vice most closely associated with the predatory nature of toxic masculinity with a bold sartorial flair.

From veal coloured bullet-proof corsets and double-breasted overcoats and suits to Freudian-printed jackets and pleated layers of hosiery fabric, the collection creates a controlled yet fluid explosion of the sexual and gendered dynamics of fixation across the shop floor. With a diverse casting made up of men who breakaway of the conventional codes for masculine beauty, prominent features and a rigid gaze add hardness and fierceness which fit the mood of the clothing. This 2019 Autumn/Winter Jordanluca collection not only harkens back to the roots of its Italian heritage whilst blending seamlessly with the intensity and rawness of London looks, but breaks away from any choice to take the safe conceptual road.